4 Things you need to know

4 Things Every Borrower Needs to Get Approved for a Mortgage or Home Loan In Kentucky

 FHA VA KHC, Conventional, Fannie Mae, Freddie Mac





Things Every Borrower Needs to know Get Approved for a Loan!!!!





There are 4 basic things that a borrower needs to show a lender in order to get approved for a mortgage. Each category has so many what ifs and sub plots that each box can read as it’s own novel. In other words, each category has so many variables that can affect what it takes to get approved, but without further adieu here are the four categories in no particular order as each without any of these items, you’re pretty much dead in the water:

Income

You need income. You need to be able to afford the home. Without it, forget it! But what is acceptable income? Basically, it all depends on the type of loan that a borrower applies for. Jumbo, V.A., USDA, FHA, Conventional, Kentucky Housing KHC Super Jumbo? Let’s just say that there are two ratios:

First Ratio – The first ratio, top ratio or housing ratio. Basically that means out of all the gross monthly income you make, that no more that X percent of it can go to your housing payment. The housing payment consists of Principle, Interest, Taxes and Insurance. Whether you escrow or not every one of these items are factored into your ratio. There are a lot of exceptions to how high you can go, but let’s just say that if your ratio is 33% or less, generally, across the board, you’re safe.

Second Ratio- The second ratio, bottom ratio or debt ratio includes the housing payment, but also adds all of the monthly debts that the borrower has. So, it includes housing payment as well as every other debt that a borrower may have. This would include, Auto loans, credit cards, student loans, personal loans, child support, alimony….basically any consistent outgoing debt that you’re paying on. Again, if you’re paying less than 43% of your gross monthly income to all of the debts, plus your proposed housing payment, then……generally, you’re safe. You can go a lot higher in this area, but there are a lot of caveats when increasing your back ratio.

What qualifies as income? Basically, it’s income that has at least a proven, two year history of being received and pretty high assurances that the income is likely to continue for at least three years. What’s not acceptable?????? Cash income, short term income and income that’s not likely to continue.

Assets

For the most part this is fairly simple. Do you have enough assets to put the money forth to qualify for the downpayment that the particular program asks for. USDA says that there can be no money down. FHA, for now, has a 3.5% downpayment. Some loans require 20% down. These assets need to be validated through bank accounts and sometimes gifts. Can you borrower the down payment? Sometimes. Generally if you’re borrowing a secured loan against a secured asset you can use that. But rarely can cash be used as an asset. TALK TO YOUR LOAN OFFICER FIRST when discussing what’s acceptable?

Credit

Whewwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww. This can be the bane to every borrower, every loan officer and every lender……and yes, to every realtor. How many times has a borrower said my credit’s good, only to find out that it’s not nearly as good as a borrower thinks or nearly as good as the borrower needs. Big stuff for sure. 640 is the bottom score (again with few exceptions) that lenders will permit. Below a 620, then you’re in a world of hurt. Even at 640, people consider you a higher risk that other folks and are going to penalize you or your borrower with a more expensive loan. 700 is when you really start to get in the “as a lender we love you” credit score. 720 is even better. Watch your credit!!!!! Check out my post:

Kentucky Housing VA FHA KHC USDA and FNMA all require 640 credit score!

Appraisal

In many ways this is the easiest box. Why????? Generally, there’s nothing you can do to affect this. Bottom line here is…..”is the value of the house at least the value of what you’re paying for it?” If not, then not good things start to happen. Generally you’ll find less issues with values on purchase transactions, because, in theory, the realtor has done an accurate job of valuing the house prior to taking the listing. The big issue comes in refinancing. In purchase transactions, the value is determined as the

Lower of the value or the contract price!!!

That means that if you buy a $1,000,000 home for $100,000, the value is established at $100,000. Conversely, if you buy a $200,000 home and the value comes in at $180,000 during the appraisal, then the value is established at $180,000. Big issues….Talk to your loan officer.

For each one of these boxes, there are over 1,000 things that can effect if a borrower has reached the threshold to complete that box. Soooooooooooo…..talk to a great loan officer. There are so many loan officers that don’t know what they’re doing. But, conversely, there’s a lot of great ones as well. Your loan is so important! Get a great lender so that you know, for sure, that the loan you want, can be closed on!



Call me today at Key Financial Mortgage for your free pre-approval for your next home or refinance

I can answer your questions and usually get you pre-approved the same day.

I can be reached at my Louisville Ky office at 502-905-3708 Ask for Joel

Email: kentuckyloan@gmail.com


A Complete Guide to Closing Costs

A Complete Guide to Closing Costs

Types of Closing Costs

Let’s talk briefly about the types of closing costs you might encounter and how much those costs tend to run. Understand that closing costs, especially tax-related costs, will vary widely depending on where you live. But some costs can be estimated based on national averages.
Also, you should know that with fluctuations in the real estate market, closing costs are also fluctuating. A 2012 US News article pointed out that closing costs dropped 7 percent over 2011-2012 to an average of about $3,754.
The drops are, in part, because of 2010 regulations that were put in place by the government to shield homebuyers from “closing cost sticker shock.” Now that lenders are better at estimating final closing costs, those costs are dropping naturally.
Still, the national average for closing costs is nearly $4,000, which isn’t pocket change for your average homebuyer. So where’s all that money going? Here are some of the closing costs you might have to pay, along with average costs, based on the Allstate Home Buyers Closing Cost Worksheet.
  • Mortgage Application Fee: This fee varies from lender to lender but usually is $200-$400. You don’t have to pay this fee when you’re shopping around for a mortgage, but you’ll probably pay it when your chosen lender is processing your application. Sometimes this fee is due ahead of closing.
  • Appraisal Fee: This fee can sometimes be paid by the seller but is normally paid by the buyer. Basically, the fee goes to a professional appraiser who will ensure that the bank isn’t lending you more money than a property is worth. It’ll cost $100-$400.
  • Building Inspection: If you need to hire a home, pest or other specialized inspector, you’ll have to pay the fee. Some lenders will require an inspection to make sure the property is in good condition. This fee runs $150-$400 on average.
  • Survey: This is a fee you’re likely to skip, though it’s required by commercial lenders. It is for a surveyor to check out the lot and the structures on it to ensure the boundaries are properly noted. It can cost $300-$450.
  • Legal Fees: Although attorney fees will add extra to your bill, you may want to pay a professional to ensure that all the documentation for your home is in order. Some lenders will bring along their own attorney, but yours will ensure that your personal interests are protected. Legal fees can run $300-$600, depending on your attorney and what you’re requiring of him or her.
  • Title Search and Insurance: A title insurance company will ensure that the title to the home is free and clear — that no one else will have claims on it. Sometimes a title search is separate from title insurance and will cost $150-$200. Title insurance varies but is usually about 1 percent of the home price.
  • Private Mortgage Insurance (PMI): If you put less than 20 percent down on your home, you’ll likely have to pay PMI. The average PMI premium is 2.5 percent of the mortgage, though your premium will vary depending on the value of your home, your credit score and your down payment. If you need PMI, you’ll likely have to pay a portion of the premium at closing. (Note: If you’re getting an FHA, VA or RHS government-backed loan, you’ll pay something like PMI, but it will be paid to the guarantor.)
  • Homeowners Insurance: All lenders will require that you carry homeowners insurance on a property as long as it’s mortgaged. Typically, you’ll have to pay the first year’s property insurance premium in advance. Sometimes you’ll pay the insurer directly, but other times you’ll pay at closing.
  • Prepaid Interest: This one can get a little complicated. Let’s say your mortgage payment is due on the 1st of every month, but you close on your new home on the 15th. If this is the case, the lender will calculate the interest you owe for those 15-16 days remaining in the month, and that interest payment will be due at closing. Sometimes the seller reimburses these costs, since it’s often in his or her best interest to close as soon as possible — before your first mortgage payment is due. These costs will depend on your mortgage amount, interest rate and the time between closing and your first payment coming due.
  • Points: Points are another form of prepaid interest, but they’re generally not required. You can pay, usually, from 0-4 points on your mortgage. One point equals 1 percent of the total mortgage principal. (If you’re taking out a $100,000 loan, a point is $1,000, for instance.) One point usually reduces your interest rate by 1/8 percent. If you choose to pay points (rather than increasing your down payment), you’ll do so at closing.
  • Escrow Fees: The majority of homeowners use an escrow system for paying real estate taxes, fire and flood insurance, homeowners insurance and PMI. The escrow account is held either by a third party or by your lender, depending on your circumstances, and it’s used to pay all of the annual or monthly premiums for these important homeownership-related items. When you close on your home, you’ll generally need to put around three months’ worth of escrowed fees in the account.
  • Realty Transfer Tax: The taxes you pay on transferring a property are similar to the taxes you pay when you buy a new (or new-to-you) vehicle. Taxes vary by your state and municipality.
  • Recording Fees: Your local government will have to record the purchase transaction of your new home, which will cost $40-$60, on average.
  • Prorated Expenses: Some of the lump-sum costs associated with your home — water bills, homeowner association fees, condominium fees, etc. — could be split between you and the seller during your transaction. If you buy a home midway through the year, for instance, you may need to pay 50 percent of these fees. These expenses will depend on when you buy your home and are often negotiable with the seller


- See more at: http://www.doughroller.net/mortgages/a-complete-guide-to-closing-costs/#sthash.76LyGU4d.dpuf



Ways to Pay Closing Costs

There are several ways to pay closing costs. Start by getting a Good Faith Estimate and then figure out which option will work best for you.

Good Faith Estimate

According to the Federal Reserve, the Real Estate Settlement Procedures Act requires that a lender give you a “good faith estimate” of your closing costs within three business days of your submitting your loan application.
Basically, the Good Faith Estimate (GFE) is part of shopping around for a mortgage. Because different lenders will have different requirements, closing costs can vary widely. So before you choose a mortgage, carefully look over the GFE to find differences between lenders.
While federal regulations aiming for more transparency in home lending have made good faith estimates somewhat more accurate, you have to remember that it’s still an estimate.
Saving for closing costs is a “hope for the best, plan for the worst” situation. Try to figure out the most you’d have to pay in closing costs and be prepared to pay them (while still leaving some cash in reserves). But you should also find the best lender for your needs and reduce closing costs as much as possible.

Pay in cash

The easiest way to pay closing costs, of course, is cash. If you have enough money in savings to pay for your down payment and your closing costs and to have cash in reserves, this is often the best option.
Paying more closing costs keeps you from taking out a bigger loan and can save you money on mortgage interest, which may save you a fortune over the life of your loan.

Roll it into the mortgage

If you don’t have plenty of cash on hand, you can roll your closing costs into your mortgage. Because closing costs are generally a small amount of money compared with your overall mortgage, most lenders don’t mind rolling part or all of the closing costs into the loan.
However, you do have to be careful because rolling your closing costs into your mortgage may mean you can’t spend as much money on a house. For instance, if, based on your credit, your lender agrees to finance up to 90 percent of the value of a $150,000 home, they may not go over that loan-to-value ratio, even to roll in closing costs.
In this scenario, say you’ve agreed to put $15,000 (10 percent) down on a home worth $150,000. Your lender agrees to finance 90 percent of the home’s value, leaving a $135,000 mortgage. If you don’t have cash for the $5,000 in closing costs, you could ask the lender to roll that into your loan, making your mortgage $140,000.
But if the lender isn’t comfortable financing 95 percent of the home’s value (a very high loan-to-value ratio in the world of home lending), you may be out of luck. In this case, you might have to find a cheaper home so that you can pay a smaller down payment and have money left for closing costs.
One thing to note: many government-backed loans, like the FHA and VA loans, are set up specifically for first-time or lower-income home buyers, who often have trouble saving for a down payment and closing costs. Because of this, it’s common for these loans to roll closing costs into the mortgage and to finance even above 95 percent of the home’s value.

Ask the seller to pay some costs

This is easier to accomplish in a sluggish housing market, or any time the seller is ready to get out of the home ASAP. In some cases, the seller will take part of the closing costs out of the money they’re getting when they sell the home.
If you don’t have money to pay closing costs, this is a good way to save money without increasing your loan (and, thus, your monthly mortgage payments). And what’s the worst that can happen? The seller may just say no.

Ask the lender to pay closing costs

Sometimes a lender will pay your closing costs, even if they don’t roll them into your mortgage. For instance, your lender might just outright pay $4,000 toward your closing costs but then raise the interest rate on your loan by 0.25 percent or more. (They’re not in the habit of giving away free money, after all.)
You’ll need to make sure this doesn’t come back to bite you. Figure out how much that extra interest will cost you over the life of your loan, or at least the length of time you plan to be in the home, and see if this is a reasonable approach for you.

Borrow for your closing costs

Taking out a separate loan for a down payment is usually a no-no. Your main lender wants to be the only one to have a claim on your home if you should default.
However, you could take out an unsecured loan to cover closing costs. Just be careful here, as interest rates could really bite on a personal unsecured loan.

Find Out How Much to Expect in Closing Costs

That’s a lot of information, and, unfortunately, it doesn’t tell you exactly how much you’ll pay in closing costs. You may not know exact closing costs until you’re ready to close on your home, but you can get a good idea of these costs online by using these resources:
  • SmartClosing Calculator – This calculator from Zillow will calculate costs based on where you’re buying a home, so taxes and government fees will be added in. The calculator will also show you the total amount you can expect to pay in mortgage payments, including real estate taxes and homeowner’s insurance.
  • Federal Reserve Settlement Costs Worksheet – This worksheet is good for comparing potential mortgage. It lets you compare the closing costs for two loans.
  • How do closing costs impact my interest rate? – This calculator from Yahoo! Homes will show you how financing closing costs, as opposed to paying them in cash, will affect your mortgage’s interest rate.

- See more at: http://www.doughroller.net/mortgages/a-complete-guide-to-closing-costs/#sthash.76LyGU4d.dpuf