Showing posts with label debt ratio. Show all posts
Showing posts with label debt ratio. Show all posts

Kentucky first-time homebuyers with a focus on FHA, VA, USDA Home loans in Kentucky



Here's a summary of different loan programs for Kentucky first-time homebuyers with a focus on
FHA, VA, USDA Home loans in Kentucky  




FHA Loan:


Credit Score: Typically requires a minimum credit score of 580; borrowers with lower scores may still qualify but may need a larger down payment.
Down Payment: Minimum down payment of 3.5%.
Income Ratio: Front-end ratio (housing expenses to income) should not exceed 31%; back-end ratio (total debt to income) should not exceed 43%.
Work History: Generally requires at least two years of steady employment, though exceptions can be made.
Credit, Bankruptcy, and Foreclosure: More forgiving than conventional loans; may consider borrowers with past bankruptcy or foreclosure.
Employment and Work History: Stable employment and income are essential.
Time to Close: Typically around 30-45 days. Appraisal and property requirements follow FHA guidelines.


VA Loan:


Credit Score:VA doesn't set a minimum score; lenders may have their requirements, often around 620 or higher.
Down Payment: No down payment required for most borrowers.
Income Ratio: Flexible debt-to-income ratios, often up to 41% or higher in certain cases.
Work History: Stable employment history is preferred.
Credit, Bankruptcy, and Foreclosure: More lenient on past credit issues; may consider borrowers with past bankruptcy or foreclosure.
Employment and Work History: Consistent income from stable employment is crucial.
Time to Close: VA loans can take 45-60 days to close. Appraisal and property requirements must meet VA standards.


USDA Loan:


Credit Score: Typically requires a minimum credit score of 640; exceptions may be possible with compensating factors.
Down Payment: No down payment required for eligible borrowers.
Income Ratio: Maximum debt-to-income ratio of 41%, though exceptions may be made with strong compensating factors.
Work History: Stable employment history is preferred, typically two years or more.
Credit, Bankruptcy, and Foreclosure: Consideration for borrowers with past credit issues, bankruptcy, or foreclosure.
Employment and Work History: Consistent income from stable employment is important.
Time to Close: USDA loans may take 30-60 days to close. Appraisal and property requirements must meet USDA guidelines.

Each loan program has specific eligibility criteria and requirements, so it's essential for first-time homebuyers to consult with lenders or mortgage experts to determine the best fit based on their financial situation and goals.



 Appraisal requirements and income documentation

 


FHA Loan:Appraisal Requirements:

The property must meet FHA guidelines, including minimum property standards and safety requirements. An FHA-approved appraiser assesses the property's value and condition.
Income Documentation: Generally requires recent pay stubs, W-2 forms, tax returns for the past two years, and proof of additional income sources (if applicable).


VA Loan:Appraisal Requirements:

 VA loans require a VA appraisal conducted by a VA-assigned appraiser. The appraisal assesses the property's value and ensures it meets VA's Minimum Property Requirements (MPRs).
Income Documentation: Typically includes pay stubs, W-2 forms, tax returns for the past two years, and proof of any additional income (e.g., bonuses, alimony, rental income).

USDA Loan:Appraisal Requirements:

USDA loans require a USDA appraisal to determine the property's value and ensure it meets USDA's standards for safety and livability.

Income Documentation: 


Similar to FHA and VA loans, USDA loans require pay stubs, W-2 forms, tax returns for the past two years, and documentation of other income sources.

These appraisal requirements and income documentation are crucial parts of the loan application process. Lenders use this information to assess the property's value, ensure it meets safety standards, and verify the borrower's income stability and ability to repay the loan.



here's a summary of different loan programs for kentucky first-time homebuyers with a focus on fha, va, usda home loans in kentucky











Hope your day is full of sunshine😊

Joel Lobb  Mortgage Loan Officer

American Mortgage Solutions, Inc.
10602 Timberwood Circle
Louisville, KY 40223
Company NMLS ID #1364

Text/call: 502-905-3708
fax: 502-327-9119
email:
 kentuckyloan@gmail.com

http://www.mylouisvillekentuckymortgage.com/


NMLS 57916  | Company NMLS #1364/MB73346135166/MBR1574


The view and opinions stated on this website belong solely to the authors, and are intended for informational purposes only. The posted information does not guarantee approval
nor does it comprise full underwriting guidelines. This does not represent being part of a government agency. The views expressed on this post are mine and do not necessarily reflect the view of my employer. Not all products or services mentioned on this site may fit all people.
NMLS ID# 57916, (www.nmlsconsumeraccess.org).

A Beginner's Guide to Home Mortgage in Kentucky


  • Conventional home loans - conventional mortgages are the ones that comply with the loan limits and terms set by government-backed mortgage companies Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac. They usually require a 3-5% down payment and allow you to borrow up to $647,200 (as of 2022). Typical credit score requirements are 620 and up. In reality, if scores are under 720, and with minimal down payment, it is hard to get approved for a conventional loan and best to look at doing a FHA loan. 
  • USDA Loans - these mortgages are designed for those buyers looking to invest in rural areas. They are backed by the USDA and don’t require a down payment, but only homes in certain areas might be eligible. No minimum score but 620 to 640 credit score requirement with household income limits for each county in Kentucky.
  • VA Loans - these loans are catered to members of the US military and their families. They are backed by the Department of Veterans Affairs and don’t require a down payment or no monthly Private Mortgage Insurance (PMI). No minimum score but 580 and above with most lenders.
  • FHA Loans - These are loans backed by the Federal Housing Administration and only require a minimum down payment of 3.5 and a score of 580 and 10% down with a 500 credit score.
  • KHC loans with down payment assistance of $7,500 require minimum credit score of 620

 

A Good Credit Score 

Some government-backed loans are accessible with a score no minimum score or 500 to 580, while conventional loans require a minimum credit score of 620.  


Down Payment

Thanks to today’s availability of different loan types, you no longer need to build that infamous 20% down payment, and you can access a loan with a 0-3% down. 


A Debt-To-Income Ratio Below 45%

The debt-to-income (DTI) ratio measures how much of your income is used to repay outstanding debt. 


Kentucky First Time Home Buyer Questions Answered:

What will my mortgage rate be?


We’ll begin with what always seems to be everyone’s number one concern, saving money. Similar to any other monthly payments you’re attempting to negotiate, it depends on a lot of factors. But we can at least clear up a few items to give you an idea of how things will go. Ultimately, the more risk you present to the mortgage lender, the higher your mortgage rate. So, if you have poor credit and come in with a low, down payment, expect a higher interest rate relative to someone with a flawless credit history and a large down payment. The higher interest rate is intended to compensate the lender for the potential of greater risk of a missed payment as data proves those with questionable credit and low down payments are more likely to fall behind on their mortgages. The property itself can also affect mortgage rate pricing – if it’s a condo or multi-unit investment property, expect a higher rate, all else being equal. Then it’s up to you to take the time to shop around, as you would any other important purchase. Two borrowers with identical loan scenarios may receive completely different rates based on shopping alone. And someone worse off on paper could actually obtain a lower rate than a so-called prime borrower simply by taking the time to gather several quotes instead of just one. For the record, a Freddie Mac study proved that home buyers who obtained more than one quote received a lower rate. There is no single answer here, but the more time you put into improving your financial position, shopping different mortgage lenders, and familiarizing yourself with the process so you can effectively negotiate, the better off you’ll be. And of course, you can keep an eye on average mortgage rates to get a ballpark estimate of what’s currently being offered.  To sum it up, compare mortgage rates as you would anything you buy, but consider the fact that you could be paying your mortgage for the next 30 years. So put in even more time!

How long is my mortgage rate good for?


Once you do find that magic mortgage rate, you’ll probably be wondering how long it’s actually good for. If you’re not asking that question, you should be because rates aren’t set in stone unless you specifically ask them to be. By that, we mean locking in the mortgage rate you negotiate or agree upon with the lender so even if rates change from one day to the next, your rate won’t. Otherwise, you’re merely floating your mortgage rate, and thereby taking your chances. Without a rate lock, it’s really just a rate quote.  Lenders will often charge a fee to lock in an interest rate. Rates can generally be locked in for anywhere from 15 to 90 days or longer, with shorter lock periods cheaper than longer ones. But pay attention to the expiration date of your lock, because you will need to close the loan before that date or you will have to renew the lock.



How do you calculate a mortgage payment?


At some point in the mortgage process, you’re going to be searching for a mortgage calculator to figure out your proposed payment.  You can see how monthly payments on mortgage loans are truly calculated using the real math, or you can simply find a payment calculator that does all the work and tells you nothing about how it comes up with the final sum.  Just make sure you use a mortgage calculator that considers the entire housing payment, including taxes, insurance, HOA dues, and so forth. Otherwise, you’re not seeing the complete picture.

What is a mortgage refinance?


As the name implies, refinancing simply means obtaining new financing for something you already own (or partially own, like real estate).  It’s kind of like a balance transfer where you move your loan from one lender to another to get better terms, except it’s a mortgage payoff.of your old mortgage loan for a new mortgage loan. If you currently have a rate of 6% on your mortgage, but see that refinance rates are now 4%, a refinance could make sense and save you a lot of money over time. You’d essentially have the lender pay off your existing loan with a brand-new loan at the lower interest rate. There is also the cash-out refinance, which allows you to tap into your home equity while also changing the rate and term of your existing mortgage. So, if you currently owe $200,000, but your home is worth $500,000, you could potentially take out $100k cash and your new loan amount would be $300,000. Your monthly payments may not even go up if interest rates are favorable, and you’d have that cash to use for whatever you wish. Be sure to use a refinance calculator or payoff calculator to help guide your decision, and consider the loan term, otherwise known as your expected tenure in the property

How much will my housing payment really be?


Like we mentioned in the related question above, be sure to factor in all the elements that go into a mortgage payment, not just the principal and interest payment that you often see advertised.  It’s not enough to look at P&I (Principal & Interest), you have to consider the PITI (Principal, Interest, Taxes and Insurance). And sometimes even the “A” (Homeowners Association Assessments).  If you don’t consider the full housing payment, including property taxes and homeowners insurance (and maybe even private mortgage insurance) you might do yourself a disservice when it comes to determining how much you can afford during the home financing process. You can check out my mortgage affordability calculator to see where you stand. Whether you have an escrow account or not, mortgage lenders will qualify you by factoring in taxes and insurance, not just your monthly mortgage payment.

When is the first mortgage payment due?


This depends on when you close your home loan and if you pay prepaid interest at  closing.  For example, if you close late in the month, chances are your first mortgage payment will be due in just over 30 days.  Conversely, if you close early in the month, you might not make your first payment for nearly 60 days. That can be nice if you’ve got moving expenses and renovation costs to worry about, or if your checking account is a little light.

What credit score do I need to get approved?


It depends what type of mortgage you’re attempting to get, and also what down payment you have, or if it’s a purchase or a refinance.  The good news is that there are a lot of mortgage programs available for those with low credit scores, including VA loans and FHA mortgages.  For example, the FHA goes as low as 500 FICO, Fannie and Freddie 620, and the USDA and VA don’t technically have a minimum credit score, though most lenders want at least 620/640. If you’re in good shape financially, a poor credit score may not actually be a roadblock. But you can save a lot of money if you have excellent credit via the lower interest rate you receive for being a better borrower. Simply put, loan rates are lower if you’ve got a higher credit score.

How large of a mortgage can I afford?


Here you’ll need to consider home values, how much you make, what your other monthly liabilities are, what you’ve got in your savings account, and what your down payment will be in order to come up with your loan amount. From there, you can calculate your debt-to-income ratio, which is very important in terms of qualifying for a mortgage.  This is a fairly involved process, so it’s tough to just estimate what you can afford or provide some quick calculation. There’s also your comfort level to consider. How much home are you comfortable financing? And don’t forget the property taxes and insurance, as well as routine maintenance costs, which can make your total housing obligations much more expensive!

Do I even qualify for a mortgage?


This is an important question to consider. Are you actually eligible for a mortgage or are you simply wasting your time and the lender’s?  While requirements do vary, most lenders require two years of credit history or clean rental history, and steady employment, along with some assets in the bank. As mentioned, if you are looking to purchase a new home, getting that pre-qualification, or better yet, pre-approval, is a good way to find out if the real thing (a loan application) is worth your while. However, even if you are pre-qualified or pre-approved, things can and do come up that turn a conditional approval into a denial letter, such as an undisclosed credit card, personal loan, auto loan, or pesky student loans. Many lenders will also verify employment and credit and income, prior to loan closing to make sure nothing has changed.  Simply, your loan is not 100% done until it funds.

Why might I be denied a mortgage?


There are probably endless reasons why you could be denied a mortgage, and likely new ones being realized every day. It’s a complicated business, really. With so much money at stake and so much risk to lenders if they don’t do their due diligence, you can bet you’ll be vetted pretty thoroughly.  If anything doesn’t look right, with you or the property, it’s not out of the realm of possibilities to be flat out denied. Those aforementioned undisclosed student loans or credit cards can also come back to bite you, either by limiting how much you can borrow or by pushing your credit scores down below acceptable levels. That doesn’t mean give up, it just means you might have to go back to the drawing board and improve your credit score, reduce some debts, or find a new lender willing to work with you. It also highlights the importance of preparation!

What documents do I need to provide to get a home loan?


In short, a lot of them, from tax returns to pay stubs to bank statements and other financials like a brokerage account if using assets from such a source. This process is becoming less paperwork intensive thanks to new technologies like single source validation, but it’s still quite cumbersome. You’ll also have to sign lots of loan disclosures, credit authorization forms, letters of explanation, and so on.  While it can be frustrating and time consuming, do your best to get any documentation requests back to the lender ASAP to ensure that you will close your home loan on time. And make sure you always send all pages of documents to avoid re-requests.


What type of mortgage should I get?


There are a lot of loan options, including fixed-rate mortgages and adjustable-rate mortgages, along with conventional loans and government loans, such as FHA and VA. While most borrowers just default to the 30-year fixed-rate mortgage loan, there are plenty of other loan programs available, and some may result in significant savings depending on your plans. For example, a 5/1 ARM might come with an interest rate 0.75% below a 30-year fixed, and it’s still fixed for the first five years, adjusting every year thereafter. You might want to start with the fixed-rate versus ARM comparison, then go from there. If you’re comfortable with an ARM, you can explore the many options available. If you know a fixed rate is the only way to go with a home loan, you can determine whether a shorter-term option like the 15-year fixed is in your budget and best interest. Also consider the FHA vs. conventional pros and cons to ensure you’ve covered all your bases if trying to decide between those two loan types.


How big of a down payment do I need?


That depends on a lot of factors, including the purchase price of the home, the type of loan you choose, the property type, the occupancy type, your credit score, and so on. There are still zero down mortgage options available in certain situations, including for USDA and VA loans, and widely available 3% and 3.5% down options as well.  In short, you can still get a mortgage with a relatively small down payment, assuming it’s owner-occupied and not a vacation home or investment property. Just make sure you can afford the higher monthly payments!

Do I need to pay mortgage insurance?


Good question. The answer coincides with down payment and/or existing home equity, along with loan type. Basically, you want to be at or below 80% loan-to-value to avoid mortgage insurance entirely, at least when it comes to a home loan backed by Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac. That means a 20% down payment or greater when purchasing a home, or 20%+ equity when refinancing a mortgage. However, for a FHA loan, mortgage insurance is unavoidable, regardless of the loan to value.


What are mortgage points? Do I need to pay them?


The choice is yours when it comes to points, though it does depend on how the lender. Are they discount points or a loan origination fee?  Points paid by you, that are for a lender origination fee do not reduce the interest rate. They are a fee to compensate the lender for their cost to originate the mortgage loan. Discount points will reduce the loan interest rate. For every point paid, there is a corresponding reduction in interest rate charged.  Of course, these points can be paid directly and out-of-pocket, or indirectly via a higher mortgage rate and/or rolled into the loan. This is part of the negotiation process, and also your preference.

What closing costs are negotiable?


Closing costs will be fees assessed by and paid to your lender and fees assessed by your lender but paid to a third-party. Many closing costs may be negotiable, including some third-party fees that you can shop for like title insurance. Closing costs refer to fees both paid to the lender as well as fees assessed and paid to a third-party provider.  If you look at your Loan Estimate (LE), and provided settlement Service Provider list, you’ll actually see which services identified which you can shop for. Then there are the loan costs, which you may be able to negotiate with some lenders. In some instances, you may not be charged an outright fee, because it will be built into the rate, which also may be negotiated at times. You have every right to go through each and every fee and ask what it is and why it’s being charged. And the lender should have a reasonable response.


How quickly can I get a mortgage?


This is an easier mortgage question to answer, though it can still vary quite a bit. In general, you might be looking at anywhere from 30 to 45 days for a typical residential mortgage transaction, whether it’s a mortgage refinance or home purchase. Of course, stuff happens, a lot, so it’s not out of the ordinary for the process to take up to 60 days or even longer. At the same time, there are companies (and related technologies) that are trying to whittle the process down to a couple weeks, if not less. So, look forward to that in the future!


Do I really need a 20% down payment to purchase a home?


A. No. There are several other loan options available that allow you to put as little as 5%, 3%, or even 0% down. Just keep in mind that a conventional home loan with less than a 20% down payment typically requires Private Mortgage Insurance (PMI). FHA loans will require mortgage insurance premiums regardless of the down payment. Mortgage Insurance protects the lender from losing money if you end up not being able to pay the loan.

When should I lock in my interest rate?


A. This answer differs depending on whether you’re purchasing or refinancing a home. But of course, either way, you want to obtain the lowest rate possible on such a large amount of money.  If you’re refinancing, your application has to be credit-approved before you can lock in your rate. If you’re shopping for a home, your application has to be credit-approved and the seller has accepted your offer before you can lock in your rate.  Then, you’ll need to decide if you want to lock in today’s rate or keep an eye on rates in the days that follow.  Be sure to understand any fees associated with the rates you see advertised — not all are created equal, so you want to pay attention to the Annual Percentage Rate (APR), not just the interest rate.


How long does my pre-approval last?


A. Pre-approvals on average are good from 60 to 90 days, at which time, if you haven’t put an offer on a home and submitted a loan application, you’ll need to get pre-approved again.

When I purchase a new home, what exactly, are closing costs, and how much should I expect to pay?


A. When you decide to buy a home, you’ll spend more than just your down payment. You’ll also pay for things like recording fees, wire fees, or escrow account, origination fees, upfront insurance premiums and any “points” you buy to lower your interest rate. These expenses are collectively called closing costs, and you can expect them to run you anywhere from 2% to 5% of the purchase price of your home.

What type of mortgage should I choose?


A. This is entirely unique to your financial situation, what you want to buy, how long you plan to live in the home, and more. With options that range from a standard 30-year fixed-rate home loan to an adjustable-rate mortgage that lets you pay less in interest for the first few years, your best bet at finding the right loan is to speak with an expert. Our mortgage loan advisors can spend time understanding your needs and goals to assist you in determining the best loan program for you




Joel Lobb
Mortgage Loan Officer
Individual NMLS ID #57916

American Mortgage Solutions, Inc.

Text/call:      502-905-3708
fax:            502-327-9119
email:
          kentuckyloan@gmail.com

 




Mortgage Overlays Explained

Overlays Explained


Kentucky Mortgage Overlays




What’s an Overlay? An Overlay is a mortgage industry term that highlights an additional qualifying requirement(s) beyond what the guidelines issued by Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac. FHA, VA and USDA loans can also have overlays. These guidelines are set forth for several reasons, but one is to provide lenders with mortgage program stability as well as allowing lenders to sell loans, either individually or ‘in bulk.

Think about that for a moment. If there were no secondary market at some point the mortgage company would run out of money to lend. When a lender makes a loan, it draws down some money from its credit line and replenishes that credit line once the loan(s) is sold. This process occurs over and over again.

Overlays can also be used to target a specific type or class of borrower. To reduce risk, a lender might ask for a greater down payment than is originally required. Let’s look at credit scores as an example. While Fannie might ask for a minimum credit score to be 680 a lender might decide to up the ante a bit and set the minimum score at 700.

Catering to different groups means catering to a particular market or class of borrower. One lender may continue to stand firm with a 680 score while another decides 700 is better. Many borrowers may not know about this dynamic. This can mean applying for a mortgage at a mortgage company, getting declined and thinking that all lenders are the same and stop their search for a new home. All they really needed to do was to continue shopping for a lender who would approve the very same loan, just without the harsher overlays.

If a lender asks for a 680 score your loan officer will know where to send a loan with a sub-700 FICO. These overlays can be placed on both conventional as well as government-backed mortgages. The government-backed mortgages are those underwritten to FHA, VA and USDA program guidelines.

Overlays can come and go over time. A lender might set forth a new overlay and then a year later remove it or even enhance it. It’s completely up to the individual lender as long as the loan is approved using established guidelines. What lenders can’t do is weaken guidelines. There are no overlays to drop the minimum score requirement from 680 to 650, for example. Doing so would mean the mortgage didn’t meet program guidelines and the loan could no longer be sold. Overlays help protect the lender while at the same time providing borrowers with additional choices.

Finally, lenders can’t dilute loan program requirements. In other words, lenders can’t apply an overlay to lessen the requirements. Reducing approval requirements means the loan won’t have the minimum features that secondary markets require. If a lender does in fact reduce the requirements the loan can still be made, it’s just that the lender can expect to keep the loan in its own possession for the life of the loan.


One important concept you should familiarize yourself with is the “lender overlay,” which is essentially an expanded guideline (or set of guidelines) on top of what Fannie Mae, Freddie Mac, or the FHA/VA will allow.

Think of it as a second coat of paint, applied after the primer. The primer is the bare minimum necessary, but you don’t see people driving around too often without that second coat.

The same goes for mortgages. Fannie Mae, Freddie Mac, and the FHA/VA all set underwriting guidelines for residential mortgages, but they don’t actually lend directly to consumers.

Their job is to purchase and/or securitize the home loans that fit their guidelines, which is why they exist to begin with. Essentially, to keep the mortgage market liquid.

By doing so, lenders are able to sell their loans more easily, knowing they fit certain pre-determined criteria, which allows them to originate more loans via that increased liquidity.


Written by David Reed for www.RealtyTimes.com Copyright © 2022 Realty Times All Rights Reserved. Reed is from Austin, Texas and is the author of The Real Estate Investor’s Guide to Financing, Your Guide to VA Loans and Decoding the New Mortgage Market. A Senior Loan Officer and Mortgage Executive for more than 20 years, he has also appeared on CNN, CNBC, Fox Business, Fox and Friends and the Today In New York show.